The case for an unlined coat

There is a reason most coats are lined, and it is not warmth. A lining is the fastest way to conceal an interior that would not survive being looked at: raw edges, fused panels, a shoulder built from three pieces of foam and hope.

Double-faced wool removes the option. The cloth is woven as two faces bonded by a fine binding thread, then split by hand at the seam allowance so the two layers can be closed around each other. Every edge on the Marchand is finished this way. It takes roughly four hours per coat and there is no step at which a shortcut is invisible.

What you get for that is a coat with no interfacing, no lining and no shoulder pad - which means nothing inside it can bubble, twist or come away from the cloth in year three. It hangs from the shoulder because the cloth is heavy enough to do so on its own.

It also means the coat can be altered. A lined, fused coat is effectively finished at the point it leaves the factory; a double-faced one can be taken in, let out, shortened and re-hemmed indefinitely. We do that for free, for as long as you own it.